Hidden in the lush mountain slopes just above Përmet lies the historic village of Leusa, home to one of Albania's most remarkable cultural treasures: The Church of St. Mary (Kisha e Shën Marisë). Built in the 18th century, this Orthodox church is famous for its completely preserved, vibrant frescoes and intricate wood carvings.
The Cobblestone Hike
Part of the magic of visiting Leusa Church is the journey to get there. Because the village sits on a steep incline above Përmet, it is best accessed on foot. The hike begins directly from the city center and follows a centuries-old, original cobblestone path that winds its way up the mountain.
The walk takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes and leads you through peaceful canopies of walnut and fig trees. As you ascend, you are rewarded with increasingly beautiful, panoramic views of the entire Përmet valley and the Vjosa River below.
Untouched 18th-Century Frescoes
When you arrive at the church courtyard, the exterior appears humble, built with traditional local stone. However, stepping inside reveals a breathtaking display of Orthodox art. The interior walls, vaulted ceilings, and arches are completely covered in vibrant, deeply pigmented frescoes painted by masters in the 18th century.
Remarkably, this church escaped the waves of religious destruction during Albania's dictatorial era. Locals often attribute its survival to the sheer beauty of the artwork and its slightly remote location. Alongside the paintings, the church features a spectacular iconostasis (the altar screen) hand-carved from solid walnut wood, showcasing incredible craftsmanship that took years to complete.
A Peaceful Retreat
The church courtyard is surrounded by a large stone wall and features a natural cold-water spring. It is a place of profound silence and peace, offering a perfect moment of reflection after the uphill hike. Visitors often sit in the shade of the massive cypress trees, enjoying the cool mountain breeze before making the descent back to the city.